If you want a fast car, be prepared to pay for it. If you just want
cheap, then stick to stock parts, and keep it clean and tuned up. Which
usually is replied to with the statement of:
Q: "But I heard that the &!%&* filter gives 3hp. What do you
think of this?"
A: I think it's a waste of time. Really. Power gains have to be
usable in my book in order to be recognized and valued. Most aftermarket
parts offer an extra 3-5hp, but they don't tell you where. That's right,
most are pretty damn near redline. Is this usable power? NO! So, IMHO
it's a complete waste of time. Although the sound of the motor through
the air filter is quite cool.... But here's what I am trying to say:
Scott's Rule #1: If it doesn't make power in a usable range, it
isn't worth worrying about. I don't care if you agree with me or not,
but this is how I judge all potential engine modifications. This will
come into play with the next question, which is often debated....
This
basically summarizes what I feel about horsepower figures...
Q: I heard that this version of the motor comes with an extra 4 hp?
How do I get one?
A: let's use the case of the 4A-GE motor. Five versions (roughly)
are available. Bluehat TVIS (112/116hp) Redhat TVIS (116-120hp), Redhat
(no TVIS) (125), Supercharged (145hp) and 20VVTi (165hp). Most people see
that extra ~4-6hp from the redhat motor and just start getting all happy.
"Oh, gee, where do I get one? It must be better than my 112hp bluehat!"
Baloney. You won't notice 5hp unless you have a phenominally
sensitive accellerometer built into your butt. No kidding. I don't know
how many times that i have talked with people (including myself at one
time!) who thought that their new air filter made such a difference that
they don't know how they got along without it for so long! When in
reality, the old filter was so clogged that it's a miracle that the engine
didn't die of excessive richness. A new stock filter would have made the
same difference. Oh, sure, you can get dyno runs that prove the filter
giving you an extra 3-5hp, but (here we go again) where are the gains? At
high rpm, where most of us DON'T spend our time.
Secondly, if you really decide that you want those extra horses, you
have to swap the head (intake path and cam changes), ECU (fuel map
changes) and possibly intake manifold (revisions) to realize those extra
hp. OK, OK, if you are in SCCA and you absolutely have to have those
extra few to be competative, sure. Otherwise I hope that you will see the
GREAT EXPENSE that this will incur, both in money and in time.
Q: So if all that aftermarket stuff won't realize me any great
gains, what do I do to get more?
A: You have a few choices, depending on your budget and level of
mechanical competence:
1. Put in a new motor with greatly enhanced properties. That's what
I did. This is not for the faint of heart, but it gets the job done.
2. Decide that you like the stock level of performance, when tuned
properly and in good running order. This si what I should have done.
(but I like punishment, so #1 was better suited to my temperament)
3. Buy a new car that goes faster out of the box. Ahhh,
money..... This is the best idea in terms of investment of time,
hassles and aggrivation.
Q: EFI or carbs- which is a better way to go?
A: Oh, boy. This is easy- EFI all the way. Look at the numbers,
EFI motors make on average 10hp more than their carbied counterparts,
while being more reliable! It really isn't that hard, you just hook up
the wires and make sure the components are all working. If something
breaks, it just gets replaced. No real adjustments to make. I will
never buy a new carb again...
OK, on the Spitfire (or Sh*tfire) the weber is much easier to play
with- but that's a story of actually enjoying pain. The corolla starts
every time in one try. Cold. In the middle of Janruary after I have been
in Sunny CA forgetting what the snow is like. The Spit will actually be
getting a 4A-GE when I get around to it.
The spit doesn't start on a warm day in the middle of august on
the first try. Never will either, thanks to the old 32/36 weber... So,
you make the call.
Q: But I am a technophobe and I love pain, so I want a carb.
A: OK, in this case I suggest that you rethink your position, but
if you STILL decide that you like pain, you have the choices of the
following items:
Stock carb. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA. Riiiiiiight. If you were happy with it
then you wouldn't be writing to me or reading this, you would be out
getting happy with your car. The only costs involved are a few beers to
ease the pain of not having a faster car.
Downdraft (downdraught) carb. Weber DG(A)V. This is a bolt on mod.
Real easy. Electric choke is the best. See the T
series information for more on this and how I felt. Mind you that I
had not felt the wonders of EFI at this point. This is daily drivable....
Costs run about $300 new with adapter and air filter. Add the cost of a
liter of vodka to ease the pain of not having EFI reliability and power.
Sidedraft (sidedraught) carbs. Yes, multiple carbs. This is how the
fast carbied cars are set up. Entry fees are around $1000ish for a new
setup, with manifold adapter, carbs, etc. Syncronizing can be a PITA. It
looks very cool in the parking lot, but is NOT a daily driver type of
thing to do! Race car only! Add the cost of about 5 liters of a hard
drink of choice (only stipulation is that it has to be over 80 proof to be
effective enough in this case) to dull the pain of having a car that
spends more time being tuned up than driven, plus costing a FORTUNE and
idling like CRAP becuase it is tuned to 5000rpm.
Q: Cams.
A: Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!
Mild to wild- Why I don't care for them:
idle goes to hell
fuel consumption (you don't care, probably, but I put on 30,000miles a
year)
excessive harshness to your motor- all of mine WILL get through 200k
miles, even with the way that I drive!
The most elegant solution, IMHO, is to use a custom fuel injection
computer, and do all your tricks to coax horsepower out of the motor
through the electronics. After seeing what can be done on the
professional race circtuits with electronics, it's an easy call to say
that a good electrics box can solve a world of problems and offer the bext
solution for all situations.
Q: I think you are full of sh*t. I have spent all of this money
and you are now telling me that what I have done is WORTHLESS!
A: You are entitled to your own opinion. =) All opinions are mine
alone, though with 4 cars I think I am very entitled to an opinion, thank
you very much.
Q: But even though I hate your decision making process, and I think
you are wrong about EVERYTHING you say, and you suck, but I still want to
talk to about things!
A: So EMAIL me and tell me
your thoughts.
December 10, 1997
Revised (slightly) Jan 31st, 2000